What is Club Racing?
Written by: Mark Kibort, Director of Engineering, and e-Racing Motorsports' professional driver
Article from Spring 2000 (prior to Mark's experiences in the Speed GT series events)
THE TEAM hits the track for some CLUB RACING events.
How we did against some formidable race cars.
What you need to know to go fast safely. (Racing Tips)
What changes we are making for the company and our race cars for YEAR 2000!
Club Racing is an experience that is hard to describe. Several words come to mind: Competitive, exhilarating, exiting, fast, adrenaline pumping, intoxicating and addicting to name a few. after doing 20 or so driving school events , our die hard 1984 928S was fitted with the proper safety equipment, such as a roll bar, fire extinguisher, and external kill switch, and we were fitted with a fire resistive driving suit, gloves and shoes and arm restraints. Since our car already had some of the best bolt on HP modifications giving us 80hp over the stock figures of 220hp, to a stout 300hp, we were ready to see how we would do against some of the seasoned club racers in a vintage rules type of club racing. (ie no bumping, modified street, and some full blown gt1-2 racers). NASA provided us a venue that suited our needs of a race that reduced the chance of contact, and a competitive environment to race against seasoned BMW, Porsche Cub and vintage Racers , all with the "Need for Speed" and the " I bet my cars faster than yours" attitude.
After the first few races, it all became clear, I wasn't driving much faster, but I was picking my battles better, and becoming more and more familiar with driving techniques of other drivers, along with learning the characteristics of different types of cars and performance levels. What it boils down to is Power to weight, stick, brakes, and subtle differences in suspension. As our car gained larger and stickier tires, slightly more HP do to some fine tuning, and we gained more experience driving and placing progressively higher in several races, we decided to start playing the "I want to go faster without going broke" game.
We started with fine tuning the already successful eRAM superchargers and making them more efficient and gained a few needed HP.
Then, we started lightening the car, with the ability to put back most before the drive home from the track. This was accomplished by stripping the sound deading material under the carpets and the coatings on the floorboards. 100lbs, then most of all the electric motors for auto tail hood release, rear visors, making all carpeting and rear seats removable. We removed window washer containers that had been half full for several years. We got lighter and wider wheels that saved 7lbs a corner, and when you are talking about rolling weight reduction, take 40% more weight off your calculations as it effects HP regained. All in all , we saved 300lbs off the porky 3400lbs base weight, making the 3100lb, 300hp 928S with big DOT racing tires, and 160,000original miles a fun and relativity competitive track car. Running a 1:47 at Laguna, 1:57 at sears, we think we still can improve on our times as some more weight is coming off (i.e. A/C, car phone, stereo, and a few more things.)
Our last 3 races have been very successful as we placed 1st and 2nd in the overall at Buttonwillow and 4th and 5th at Laguna Seca. Both races became races against each other , me driving the 928 and my team mate and student, Fred Gil driving his M3 lightweight. Although I would win some of the qualifying races, we would finish the 10-12 lap races with the 1995 M3 lightweight a nose a head at the finish line. (how's that for the tail wagging the dog?) Interteam competition is good because you learn to drive very close and trust your team mate and opponent. This elevates your game, but you have an even better awareness due to your protective instincts for your team mates. We have had a few close calls, but no body contact. In our last races we usually place fairly high and are one of the few cars to drive home. We have beaten some very powerful mustangs that were supercharged , producing 500hp, and a few vets with 400hp -600hp that didn't "drive the line" or were braking very early. This leads us to our next topic, how to drive faster.
Driving faster:
Everyone drives the line, well... almost everyone. The differences can be subtle. However, how you brake for the turns, (early or late ) usually determines the faster car, along with the speed through the turn and the acceleration down the straight. Braking early is the biggest killer of most drivers pursuit of driving faster. If you brake before the turn , at the last second possible and do it in a straight line (often hear phrase, "brake straight!"), you can save a ton of time over a guy that maybe has just smoked you down the straight by 20 car lengths, but in his early braking you can get right back up on his tail. Once you figure out your cars speed capabilities in the actual turn, you then figure out how fast you can brake to hit that magical speed to take and hold the turn in control. Turn speed usually depends on several factors: Stick (i.e. size and durometer of the tires, in other words, stickieness), weight of the car, suspension set up and center of gravity. You have heard it wider is better, but sometimes tall cars can turn and hold turns very well (i.e. VW GTIs) How do they do it? With stick, stiff suspension, and light weight. All things being equal, improve one of the three factors and you can go around turns faster, but is an art form to find the right mix. Acceleration Is a given. The better the HP to weight , the faster the car will accelerate. Better said, the more area under the HP curve in the operating RPM range, (ie on the race track, the range may only be 4000 to 6000 rpm), the faster you will be on the track. Don't just look at the peak HPs or torques of dyno results. Its area under the curve that makes you faster!!! Gearing can improve the efficiency of how that HP is applied to the ground, but does not MAKE hp. Gear set ups have to look at the time spent in each gear and the maximum speeds reached. Now, as long as you can slow your car down for the turn with the brakes you have , you are ready to run with the pack.
Changes we are making for our TRACK 928S, 911Carrera cab, and 911 carrera, and M3 lightweight:
The workhorse 928s with its 40 driving events and races, and 160,000miles is having a new engine built as we speak. It will improve the HP of the 928 from 300hp to 365 and possibly slightly more. WE are also completing the roll cage, and will be dropping more weight off every month. With a race weight of 3000lbs and 365hp, 315x35x17s and 275x40x17s of sticky race rubber, we should be close to the front in most races. Our goal is to get to a 1:43 at Laguna Seca, and still remain street legal The 911 Carrera will get some larger tires and bigger rims, and may go on a diet. At a hp level of 210 to the ground, the 2800lbs 260hp 911 can really be the sleeper of our group. GO Scott Graham!! The 911 cab , will only get some race rubber for the driving events and some club races. The M3 already has the full cage and new seats , steering wheel, and maybe some carbon fiber parts. At 2920 lbs and 260hp, race suspension, and Hoosiers, this car really moves. IF we get it down to 2700lbs , watch out, Fred Gil may show up in the SpeedVision SCCA championships in the GT class. Touring class is for 2.8liters and lower as the M3 has a 3.0 liter engine.
Most impressive cars we have seen in our races:
- Deveks 928 GTSR street open road racer ( 500HP)
- Supercharged NSX ( 400HP)
- Turbocharged 944s (430hp)
- Speedvision GT class VET ( HP ? Big)
- 911 GT1/GT2 996
- GT2R Mazda European touring car 626 (1800lbs, 300hp)
- Tilo sport European supercharged 928S4 (650hp)
- And fastest , yet stock award goes to gary freeman in his basically stock 911, but gutted, 3liter '79 SC, running 1:47s all day long at Laguna Seca.
